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Annual beds provide vibrant
color to your landscape on a year round basis. An annual is defined as
any plant that completes its natural life cycle, from germinated seed
through growth, flower, seed production, and death, in a single growing
season. Due to climatic conditions, a perennial in South Georgia may be
an annual in Atlanta, as a perennial here may be an annual in Ohio. In
North Metro Atlanta, annuals are planted semi-annually. Summer annuals
are planted in Late April and winter annuals in October.
Successful Annual
Gardening
Most annuals achieve their
most spectacular color when grown in specially prepared raised soil
beds, and are fertilized and watered frequently.
Raised annual beds are
usually 6-8" in depth. The ideal planting soil is called loam. It
contains clay and sand, plus organic matter and minerals. The more
organic matter the soil contains, the better it is for the plants. Loamy
soil contains particles of organic matter. The matter soaks up water
like a sponge but is separated by air spaces which allow plenty of
oxygen to get to the roots and excess water to drain away.
Aeration is especially
important because most plant roots, and most annuals, need both oxygen
and water, in order to absorb nutrients to help them grow and bloom. In
soils that are too dry or drain too quickly, there's not enough moisture
for nutrients to be absorbed. When the soil is too wet, plant roots,
except water adaptable plants, suffocate from lack of oxygen, then rot.
Georgia's typical red
clay soil is dense because it is made up of tiny particles that stick
together like glue. Clay soil drains slowly, feels sticky to the touch,
and easily becomes waterlogged. Its dense texture makes it more
difficult to dig than lighter soils. To correct clay soil you must
lighten its texture by adding plenty of organic matter.
Our experience has shown
great success with a 70% topsoil, 30% sandy mushroom compost mix. These
components can be found at such stores as The Mulch Man on Arnold Mill
Road or Earth Products on Cobb Parkway.
Watering is essential to
a good flower garden. The traditional rule of thumb is that gardens need
1 inch of water per week. This must be adjusted for soil drainage,
temperature, and sunlight exposure. For example, containers or flower
pots, especially small ones, dry out quickly. In very hot weather they
may need watering twice a day.
The best way to tell when
the garden needs water is to stick your finger into the soil. If it
feels dry a couple of inches below the surface, it's time to water.
Because annuals live for
just one year, they do not have time to grow extensive root systems.
This means that many annuals do poorly when not given adequate water. In
order to get roots to grow as far down as they can, be sure to water
deeply. If you forget to water and some of your plants wilt, don't give
up to quickly. Many annuals will recover from water deprivation and go
on to bloom profusely. When you water, do so thoroughly, letting the
moisture soak into the ground where the roots need it, don't merely wet
the surface.
Most annuals will benefit
from regular fertilization during the growing season. Annuals need
nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium, along with smaller amounts of
secondary nutrients, such as magnesium, calcium, and minute quantities
of trace elements, including boron and iron. For flowering annuals, we
use Osmocote 14-14-14 all purpose plant food. It is well balanced and
time released. For a quick start, use miracle grow fertilizer applied
with a hose. Flowering plants have a special need of phosphorous and
potassium to realize their blooming potential.
Pinching and deadheading
are also very useful. Young plants can be pinched back to encourage them
to redirect their energy into sending out more side shoots instead of
growing taller. Many plants can double in width after they have been
pinched back. Deadheading is very important for longer lasting flowers.
Deadheading is removing spent blossoms before they can begin to produce
seeds, or remove developing seed heads before they mature.
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Successful Annual
Gardening |
|
PLANT |
BLOOM PERIOD |
HEIGHT |
COLOR |
|
Wax Begonia |
Late spring to frost |
8-12" |
Pink, white, red, or bi-color |
|
Celosia |
Summer to frost |
1-2' |
Yellow, Orange, Red |
|
Coleus |
Late spring to frost |
1-3' |
Multiple color foliage |
|
Yellow
Cosmos |
Summer to frost |
18-36" |
Yellow, orange, pink, red, white |
|
Amaranthus |
Spring to autumn |
1-4' |
No fertilizer, colorful foliage |
|
Marigold |
Late spring to frost |
5-30" |
Yellow, orange, red |
|
Lantana |
Summer to frost |
2-4' |
Blue and red |
|
Amaranth |
Summer to frost |
9-24" |
Purple
white, pink, yellow, orange |
|
Petunias |
Summer to frost |
8-12" |
Mixed |
|
Salvia |
Summer to frost |
8-12” |
Red |
|
Vinca |
Summer to frost |
8-12” |
Red, blue |
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Moss Rose |
Summer to frost |
6-8" |
Rose, red, yellow, white, striped |
|
Fan Flower |
Summer to frost |
6"-1' |
Purple or blue with yellow throat |
|
Zinnia |
Summer to frost |
4-36" |
Every color but blue |
|
Alcea |
Summer to fall
|
4-8' |
Purple, red, pink, white or yellow |
|
Pansies |
Fall to spring
|
5-9" |
Most colors |
|
Snap Dragon |
Early spring to frost |
2-3' |
White, yellow, pink, red |
|
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|
Successful Annual
Gardening |
|
PLANT |
BLOOM PERIOD |
HEIGHT |
COLOR |
|
Ageratum |
Spring to frost |
6-18" |
Light blue |
|
Wax Begonia |
Late spring to frost |
8-12" |
Red, white and pink |
|
Coleus |
Late spring to frost |
1-3' |
Various reds, yellow, pink, green |
|
Impatiens |
Summer to frost |
6-18" |
All colors |
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Monkey Flower |
Late spring to frost |
12-14" |
Yellow and red |
|
Caladium |
Spring to frost |
2-3' |
White w/ green, red w/ green |
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